Sock it to me…

If you love hand knitted socks but hate the pointy little needles and the lengthy time investment – try your hand at double knitting or aran versions.

Quicker to knit and using thicker needles, they’re slightly less intimidating and if you crack on, they might even be ready as Christmas gifts. Double knitting socks are ideal as hiking boot socks made in a good wool/ wool mix, or bed socks in a squashier blend if you know someone with chilly toes. Aran makes an excellent welly sock (worn over a thin pair of cotton socks for comfort). Again wool or wool mix is ideal, but any aran will do.

Once you’ve made a pair or two, and you’re comfortable with the techniques, you could even size up to chunky for a great slipper sock!

Please note that the following instructions have been put together fairly quickly – let me know if there are any glaring mistakes – by email at villagewoolly AT gmail DOT com or phone 01706 222116

 

Instructions

You’ll need about 100/150g of DK or Aran yarn and and four double pointed needles size 3.5mm or 4mm for aran.

Before you start, measure your foot from the heel bone to the toe bone and note the length.

Cast on 44/48/52 stitches and join to knit in the round, making sure your stitches aren’t twisted.

44 is about right for small DK or ladies aran. 48 sts is about right for average women’s DK and 52 is about right for men’s aran. But please note that I haven’t tested every single sock on every single foot – you’ll have to use your judgement!

Follow the appropriate instructions for your cast on stitch count. It might be a good idea to print off the instructions and then highlight your stitch count.

Knit 3 inches (or desired length) in k2, p2 rib.

If you want longer boot socks, start your rib on 4mm (5mm for aran) needles and half way through your rib swap to the smaller needles – this will give you a fold over piece of ribbing.

Change to stocking stitch (k every row) and knit the leg of your socks – again if you want knee/welly socks it’s best to use 4mm (5mm for aran) needles for the calf/cuff and then swap to the smaller needles when you get to within 2 inches of the ankle.

Heel

Divide your stitches – you’ll be knitting your heel on half of your stitches – 22/24/26 – so organise your stitches such that you have 22/24/26 stitches on your first needle and 11/12/13 on each of the other 2.

You’ll work backwards and forwards on the first needle.

Heel flap pattern

Row 1. slip 1 purl wise, knit one to end/

2. purl to end (be careful, the slipped stitches are a bit more fiddly to work)

Repeat rows 1 & 2 , 11/12/13 time – 22/24/26 rows in total.

Now work the heel turn for your cast-on stitch count.

Heel for 44 sts

With right side facing

1, sl1, k11, (sl1, k1, psso), k1, turn work.

2. sl1, p3, , p2tog, p1, turn work

3. sl1, k4, (sl1, k1, psso), k1, turn work.

4 sl 1, p5, p2 tog, p1, turn work

5. sl1, k6, (sl1, k1, psso), k1, turn work.

6  sl 1, p7, p2 tog, p1, turn work

7. sl1, k8, (sl1, k1, psso), k1, turn work

8. sl 1, p9, p2 tog, p1, turn work

9. sl1, k10, k2 tog, turn work

10.sl1, p10,p2tog.

12 stitches remain.

Heel for 48 stitches

1, sl1, k13, (sl1, k1, psso), k1, turn work.

2. sl1, p3, , p2tog, p1, turn work

3. sl1, k4, (sl1, k1, psso), k1, turn work.

4 sl 1, p5, p2 tog, p1, turn work

5. sl1, k6, (sl1, k1, psso), k1, turn work.

6  sl 1, p7, p2 tog, p1, turn work

7. sl1, k8, (sl1, k1, psso), k1, turn work

8. sl 1, p9, p2 tog, p1, turn work

9. sl1, k10, (sl1, k1, psso), k1, turn work

10. sl 1, p11, p2 tog, p1, turn work.

14 sts remain

Heel for 52 sts

1, sl1, k13, (sl1, k1, psso), k1, turn work.

2. sl1, p3, , p2tog, p1, turn work

3. sl1, k4, (sl1, k1, psso), k1, turn work.

4 sl 1, p5, p2 tog, p1, turn work

5. sl1, k6, (sl1, k1, psso), k1, turn work.

6  sl 1, p7, p2 tog, p1, turn work

7. sl1, k8, (sl1, k1, psso), k1, turn work

8. sl 1, p9, p2 tog, p1, turn work

9. sl1, k10, k2 tog, turn work

10.sl1, p10, p2tog, p1, turn work.

11. sl1. k12, k2tog, turn work

12 sl1, p12, p2tog.

14 sts remain.

Heel turn is complete – you have 12/14/14 sts remaining on your needle with the right side facing.

Knit across

With a spare needle, pick up and knit 11/12/13 sts down the side of the heel turn using the slipped stitches at the beginning of the heel flap as a guide.

Then using another needle k11/12/13 stitches from each of the next two needles onto the same needle (22/2426 in total), then using another needle, k11/12/13 sts from the second side of the sock, THEN on the same needle knit 6/7/7 stitches from your heel needle – move the remaining six/seven/seven onto the first heel flap needle.

You will now have needles with stitches as follows: first needle (1) 17/19/20 stitches, second needle (2) 22/24/26 sts, third needle 17/19/20 sts.

Complete heel gusset as follows.

Round 1. Needle 1 – knit to 3 sts from end of needle, k2 tog, k1,  Needle 2, k to end, Needle 3, k1 (sl1, k1, psso), knit to end.

Round 2. k all sts.

These two rows complete your decrease pattern. Repeat until you have 11/12/13 stitches on needles 1 and 3 and 22/24/26 on the needle 2.

Heel complete.

Now continue in stocking stitch (k ever round) until your foot is the desired length (as measured at the beginning)

To decrease for the toe.

Next round (applies to all sizes)

1. Needle 1, k to 3 sts from end, k2tog, k1, needle 2, k1, (sl1, k1, psso), k to 3 sts from end k2 tog, k1, needle 3, k1, (sl1, k1, psso).

2. k all sts.

Rounds 1 & 2 set decreases for toe, continue until you have 4 sts on needle 1 & 3 and 8 on needle 2.

Graft toe stitches together (using Kitchener stitch)

Set up

Arrange your stitches: put sts from needles 1 & 3 on the same needle.

Cut your yarn leaving a manageable length for sewing. Thread it on an appropriate darning needle.

Then insert the darning needle into the st facing you as if the darning needle was going to purl it, pull the yarn through.

Then insert the darning needle into the rear stitch as if the needle was going to knit it, pull the yarn through.

1. Then insert your darning needle into the front st as if you were going to knit it, pull the yarn through and slip the st off the needle, then insert the needle into the next st, as if to purl, pull the yarn thru BUT DON’T slip the st off.

2. Then insert your darning needle into the back st as if you were going to purl it, pull the yarn through and slip the st off the needle, then insert the needle into the next st, as if to knit, pull the yarn thru BUT DON’T slip the st off.

Repeat steps 1 and 2 until all stitches have been worked, darn in the ends.

Done! Now make a second one to match. And enjoy!

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